VI Feeding
The first question I’m usually asked by puppy buyers is “What should I feed” him or her?
It can be a confusing subject considering the different types and brands of dog food available on the market today.
There are four types of dog food available:
moist - firm, canned
Semi moist - in pouches
Wet - in pouches or cans with gravy
Dry - in bags
All of the newest studies show that good quality dry dog foods are a complete and nutritious diet needing no supplementation. Dry food is easier to feed and much better
suited for long road trips. I also use it for rewarding my dogs and puppies during training sessions (when in training do not let your puppy eat until after the morning training
session). Keeping kernels of dry food in your pocket gives you immediate access to treats when your puppy deserves a reward for commands quickly obeyed.
Choosing a good quality of dry food it is not as confusing as you may think. A brand that contains no corn of any kind is the one to choose for your puppy. Check the
ingredient label, if any type of corn is listed (with the exception of corn oil) especially as one of the first five ingredients, keep looking. Corn is a filler that your puppy cannot
digest and can also cause allergies, when checking ingredient labels make sure there is no corn meal, corn flour, corn masa or corn syrup listed. NO CORN PERIOD!
Also be aware that manufacturers list ingredients in order BY WEIGHT, thus camouflaging the real order of quantity of each ingredient. As an example, label of ingredients
lists CHICKEN, BARLEY, RICE, WHEAT, ETC. The chicken out weighing the grains is listed first, but the amount of grain would really be the main ingredient. Knowing this
fact makes your choice simple. All you need to do is read the label!
The second question I am most often asked is, “how much should I feed” him or her. Most breeders feed their dogs twice a day at very specific times. The first in the early
morning before any training sessions. The second feeding in the evening. The amount that you should feed depends on how active your dog is and of course the size of
your dog, unless you choose to free feed. I found in all my years of owning, breeding and training dogs that “free feeding” works best for myself and my dogs. Free feeding
means you have food and water in a designated area allowing easy access for your dog 24/7. An exception is while either house-training or during the first four or five
months while obedience training. During the first few months, pick up the food at bedtime and replace it after the first morning training session. It has been my experience
and proven in scientific studies that dogs are less likely to over-eat when they have food and water available at all times.
VII OBEDIENCE SCHOOLS
Before I explain obedience schools or classes you should know something about how a dog learns.
Dogs learn what they are taught by reinforcements, either positive or negative. Examples of positive reinforcement are food, water, or praise. Examples of negative
reinforcements are a firm scolding or a fright scare like a loud clap. The reinforcement whether positive or negative must happen immediately during the training! Let’s
assume you told your puppy to sit and without pushing down on his rump he sits - then ten minutes later you give him a treat, you wouldn't’t expect him to know what the
treat was for would you? The same applies when giving him a negative reinforcement, to scold your dog ten minutes after he misbehaved is worthless, he won’t
understand why he is being punished. Your puppy will learn much quicker if given the proper incentives and reinforcements at the exact moment of the act, good or bad!
When training, your puppy absolutely must give you his undivided attention. To get his attention you can speak his name, snap your fingers or hold out a treat. He will look
up at you and when de does you have his attention. It is very important to KEEP his undivided attention at all times when training and the best way to accomplish this is to
keep his needs i.e. food and water unsatisfied. A well fed dog is easily distracted.
Let’s get back to obedience schools. I want you to go to an obedience class to show off your well-behaved puppy, now is the time and I don’t blame you for showing off! You
should be proud of yourself and your fabulous puppy. Taking your puppy to obedience class to learn is one of the worst environments to train your puppy. One of the
reasons that these classes run so long is that each new puppy must get used to so many distractions, other people, cars and other puppies! When training you need to
keep your puppy’s attention. To do so, use a quiet room an empty garage or anywhere you can go uninterrupted without distractions.
Only after training your puppy to sit, stay, come and heel that obedience classes should be attended. When your puppy follows all commands without flaws either in a quiet
setting or one where there are many distractions you can go further!
After your puppy follows your commands consistently you should start introducing some distractions. Take him outside for training and if your children are playing nearby, all
the better. Introduce distractions slowly at first and remember a well fed dog is easily distracted! Keep his needs such as food and water unsatisfied while training. The few
kernels of his regular dog food will be quite the treat when he obeys your commands.
VIII Methods of Training
There are different methods of dog training that are all designed to accomplish the same goal; A well behaved, obedient pet. The first method is the old “Standard Method.”
The Standard Method teaches a dog to sit by pushing down on it’s rear end and forcing him to sit, while giving the command “sit”. With enough repetitions the dog will learn
to sit on command. Other commands, such as heel, stay and come are taught in the same general manner.
The second method is called the “Natural Method”. In the Natural Method you stand in front of the dog, bend over to get closer to his level, and have a treat ready in your
hand, holding it above his head while moving the treat back toward his tail. The natural Tendency is for the dog to sit in order to keep his eye on the treat, and as he does
you command “sit.” With enough repetitions, the dog will learn to sit on command. Other commands are taught through the use of their instincts, inherent behavior or
reflexes.
When it comes to reinforcement, both methods use positive and negative reinforcement. The Standard Method uses mild negative reinforcement, while the Natural Method
uses more harsh tactics. The Natural Method suggests that you whip a dog until it cries when not responding correctly to a command and even use electric shock for some
indiscretions. As you can imagine, the Natural Method does work quicker, an advantage for the professional dog trainer who needs to train several dogs as quickly as
possible. This method requires an extensive knowledge of both dog psychology and dog behavior and most professional trainers, like myself, have acquired this
knowledge in our studies of dogs over the years. The average dog owner would not have or would not want to gain that much knowledge about dog psychology in order to
just train one dog. I would also hope that most dog owners share my belief that electric shock and whipping are much too harsh. In my method of dog training, I teach you
how to train your dog by using the best techniques of both the standard and natural methods. The harshest punishment or negative reinforcement that I use, is a rolled up
newspaper. A rolled up newspaper makes more noise than anything else and won’t hurt the dog. Never discipline a small, young puppy with a rolled up newspaper.
Training a puppy or an adult dog should be fun for you and your dog. In training a young puppy, keep it fun and keep it short: 8 to 10 minutes maximum. You can increase
the duration of the training sessions after the puppy reaches the age of 12 weeks old. Now it’s time to move on to obedience training and let the fun begin!
VII Obedience Training - The proper time to start training a dog.
You should start training your puppy when she reaches the age of seven to eight weeks old. In other words, the day you get your new puppy home. Start the training with fun
games, more serious training won’t start until your puppy is twelve weeks old. The first command to teach her is to “sit”. The easiest way to teach her to sit is to stand or
kneel down in front of your puppy, crouch down in order to get a little closer to her level. Holding a kernel of her regular food in your finger tips, hold it above her head and as
she is fixated on the food, move it to a position that will cause her to automatically sit. A natural reflex. If she doesn't’t sit naturally, push down gently on her rump until she
sits. As she starts to sit, command “sit”. After she sits give her the treat and praise her. Don’t get too exuberant with your praise, do it calmly so as not to get her too excited.
A “good girl” and a pat on the head will do just fine. Once she has mastered the sit command without treats you can move on to new commands. You will be very surprised
at how quickly she learns. The four basic commands are; Sit, heel, stay and come. Teach one at a time and in that order, and keep it fun.
Young puppies have an incredibly short attention span, so don’t over do it, four to six times a day with 8 to 10 minutes sessions maximum. You can start increasing the
length of each session when the serious training starts at 12 weeks old. DO NOT punish your puppy for mistakes, she doesn't’ know what you want her to do yet. When she
makes a mistake, stay calm and don’t get upset as it will only upset the puppy. The proper way to correct a young puppy is to start over, try the command again and then
praise her for a job well done.
There is not enough space in these short tips to teach all the necessary commands that you need to teach your puppy, but this should give you a good head start.
After you see how quickly your puppy learned to sit on command and you want to teach her more, look for my upcoming book “The Home Grown Dog” available for free
downloading and also in published form.
X Training to Heel
I almost feel like “heel” should not be listed as a separate command. You will be using it casually to take your puppy from room to room or outside when teaching her to
“sit,” stay and come. This is also a very easy command to teach. Your puppy will learn it very quickly because she wants to follow you wherever you go, with or without a
command. To start with give her the command “sit“, after a few seconds, with leash in hand, do all three of the next steps simultaneously. Command her to heel, start
walking (left foot first with your pup on the left) and “gently” give a tug on the leash to signal her to walk with you. You will be surprised at how quickly she understands what
you want. Just remember to do all three at the same time. “heel” walk and tug “gently” until she has it down pat. You will notice that she will have a tendency to walk in front
of you. Do not allow her to do so, she is not the pack leader, you are. Once she understands “heel” and walks with you without the tug on her leash, command “heel” and
start walking. When you stop she should sit next to you automatically, if not command “sit” and pull back gently to help her understand what you want her to do. After a
couple of days of successfully walking at heel you can try it without a leash. Carry a long stick with you, not to beat her with, just to stop her from stepping out in front of you.
Simply move the stick across her chest with a very light tap. This will remind her to walk beside or behind you. She will probably not do well off leash the first few times, that’
s OK, just put her back on leash and start over. Again, end all training sessions on a positive note. Don’t try to use the stick too early in her training, as it could scare a
young puppy. When she is ten or eleven weeks old is soon enough.
The important things to remember: Don’t get upset when she falters on a command or breaks on a sit and don’t reprimand her, by the time you get to her it’s too late, she
won’t know why you are angry with her. Just put her leash back on and try again, correcting her as needed and praising her and or giving her a treat for a job well done.
“Voila” you have finished on a positive note.
XI Training to Stay
Teaching your puppy to stay is the most difficult command for him to learn, he doesn't’t want to be left behind. The drive to be part of the pack is extremely strong. Thus,
when you command “Stay” and walk away he wants to go with you, the pack leader. When first training your puppy it is important to not walk away, stay very close. Command
your puppy to “sit” he should be doing this readily by now. Crouch down low to your puppy and command “Stay.” Use a calm assertive voice. At the same time place your
hand in front of his face, palm toward him, almost touching his nose. Stand up, keeping the palm of your hand near his snout, move to the front of him, maintaining your
hands visual impact. Take your hand away slowly and after just a few seconds of him staying, release him from the stay by saying “OK” or “good boy.” Any number of
release words will work fine, even “release” if you wish. Just be consistent with the word and tone when using any specific command.
Remember to be patient, he doesn't’ know what you want yet and he just wants to be with you and not left behind. While in the “sit” - “stay” command if he tries to leave or
lie down, don’t let him. No scolding yet, just go to him and start over calmly. Don’t worry he’ll get it soon enough, I promise you. In these initial training sessions, keep him
on a leash and collar to maintain control. As he starts to understand the command “stay” start lengthening the duration of the stays and move farther away until you are at
the end of your 6 foot leash. If he breaks go back, start over and don’t move as far away from him. Then go back to a command that he knows well like “sit.” That will end the
training session on a positive note. “Good boy, do you want to play ball now“? Have fun and keep the training sessions short, only a few minutes. He will start serious
school after he is 12 weeks old. In the mean time it’s fun and games. He will be doing just fine by then. Later in his training you will be able to take him outside, command
“stay” walk out of sight to the other side of the house for instance. You’ll be able to leave him alone for long periods of time without him moving. That is later after 12 weeks
old, right now it’s just fun.
XII Training to Come
This command is extremely important to teach your dog. Can you imagine having a grown, adult dog that won’t come when you call her? You would be frustrated and angry
each time that you called her. This should never happen, “come” is the easiest and the most fun for you and your puppy to learn. You will be able to see the joy in your puppy’
s eyes when you command her to come. The first time you command her to come, watch how excited she is when she gets to run to you. I can also assure you there will be
a huge smile on your face when she does! All puppies will come to you willingly, but just because they will as pups doesn't mean that they will as adults. Start the training
as soon as you get her home and continue to reinforce the commands as she matures.
Put your puppy in a “sit-stay” command, she already knows and does well. Move away from her to the end of your six foot leash, get down on one knee, move your hands in
a motion for her to come to you and say “come.” She is on her way, that’s where she wants to be. When she comes, reward her with a “good girl” and a pat on the head or
even a treat, a kernel of her regular food works well. Don’t overdo the treats, once in a while is enough.
Continue training in this manner until she will reliably come to you on or off leash. Save training in areas where there are many distractions, like the backyard where your
children are playing nearby, until she is over 12 weeks old.
Never call your puppy or your adult dog in order to discipline her. Coming to you when called should always be a pleasant experience for her. If you are going to punish her
for some bad behavior, go to her, don’t call her to come!
XIII The Down Command
The command “Down” can mean different things to differently trained dogs. The Golden Retriever trained for duck hunting will be trained to lie down in the boat or duck
blind. He will be taught “down” “stay” and he will continue to lie down until released. The dog that is trained as a loving house companion also needs to be taught “down.”
The companion, however needs to learn not to jump up on children or guests. You don’t want your 80 pound dog jumping up on a child or a guest in her new cocktail dress
at the Christmas Party. “Down” means just that, get down and stay down. That includes pawing for attention. This command is for your little 12 pound toy Poodle also. It can
be quite annoying to guests having a dog clawing at them or trying to jump up in their lap. You don’t have to teach your companion to lie down on command, it really is not
necessary. The command “sit” is sufficient and if he decides to lie down after being on the “sit” command, let him - you are not in competition. Besides, you just said “sit”
you didn't say “stay.”
The young dog can be taught “down” by pushing him back with the palm of your hand directly in his snout. When correcting an older dog who may have forgotten his
lessons a swift knee to his chest will remind him very quickly. For the smaller older dog, stepping on his back feet will do the trick, but be careful not to step on his foot with
your heel.
Which ever method you use, just remember this is negative reinforcement and must be accompanied by a command. “Down” in a calm assertive voice, not in anger.
Yelling means nothing to a dog. Their senses work in this order: Smell is the most powerful, then sight, last and definitely the least, is hearing.
Stay calm, use the right tone in your voice and he will learn very shortly that “down” means “down.”
XIV Dental Care
For your dog to grow up to have strong teeth without gum disease start cleaning your young puppy’s teeth. Cleaning her teeth just once a month will do wonders, and it’s
quite simple. Use a terry wash cloth, dip the corner of a damp cloth in table salt. The salt will act as an abrasive, doing a better job than toothpaste and without the mess.
With a finger inside the salt dipped cloth or a soft bristled brush, use an up and down motion cleaning one tooth at a time until reaching the back teeth where it is possible
to clean several at a time. Cleaning in this way won’t take you long and your dog will be much better off because of it. Your dog will not have that old doggy breath as often
either.
Pfizer has introduced a canine dental vaccine that claims to prevent and treat periodontitis, the inflammation of dental bone and surrounding tissues. It works by stopping
build-up of black bacteria in the mouth. It doesn't’t retard plaque, so regular cleaning is still needed.
As long as your dog gets “chew bones“, like Nylabones or other chew toys and some chew treats like dental chews, once a month is sufficient brushing. Taking her to the
vet every six months to one year for deeper cleaning is highly recommended for removal of tartar build up. Your vet won’t have to work as hard on your dog’s teeth due to
your once a month brushing. One caution, some vets will anesthetize your dog to clean her teeth. If your regular vet does, find a vet that will clean teeth without putting the
dog under anesthetic. I never allow any of my dogs to be put under anesthetic for teeth cleaning. Every time a dog is anesthetized there is a risk and why not avoid the risk.
Your dog is already used to having her teeth cleaned because you have been doing it for months. There is no reason to put her under an anesthetic.
XV Why Spay or Neuter
There are several reasons beyond the obvious why your little female puppy should be spayed. You already know you don’t want her to come into heat with all the
accompanying problems, but two other very important reasons to spay are:
The more often a female comes into heat without being bred the higher the chance that she will get Pyometra a uterine infection that can mean emergency surgery and
also the possibility of death if unattended. It can be difficult to detect Pyometra.
Also an un-spayed female produces estrogen which in some breeds can cause cancer.
These two major problems are reason enough to spay your little girl.
Males should not be routinely neutered in order to modify their patterns of behavior. Dogs don’t usually suffer from a variety of behavioral problems that are caused by
testosterone. I do, however, see problems in dogs, fairly often, that could have been helped or even eliminated by neutering.
In studies done by Benjamin L. Hart at the University of California on the effects of neutering dogs, he found these statistics. I’m limiting those findings to those I feel are
important to you the pet-owner.
Roaming reduced in 90% of the cases.
Territory marking by urinating - reduced in 50% of the cases.
Aggression - reduced in 60% of the cases.
And finally, mounting people or “leg humping” - reduced in 60% of the cases.
Neutering does not however change his personality or his relationship with people, except the neutered male will in all likelihood, accept authority more willingly from his
human pack leaders, making him easer to train. If you do decide to neuter, let him sexually mature before neutering, don’t do it too early. You may even want to wait to see if
there is a problem and then neuter.
It boils down to personal choice where the male is concerned.
XVII Shipping Your Puppy
If it is necessary for you to ship your puppy I have included some information to make the process easier.
Pick a direct flight if possible, I have included airlines that I have personally used. I have never had a problem
with any of these airlines. Check each airline’s website for their suggestions on shipping your dog.
Alaska Airline 1-800-225-2752 they seem to have the most flights for pets, at least on the west coast.
Continental 1-800-575-3335, this airline caters to flying animals. Continental keeps pets in climate controlled holding rooms between flights, this is essential during hot
summers or cold winters. Their hub is Houston, Texas which is a problem depending on where your shipping destination is located
United 1-800-825-3788 United’s hubs are Denver, Chicago and Los Angeles so it will be easier to find the right flight for your destination
Delta Airline uses Sky West for their live animal shipments 1-800-258-2208, goes thru Salt Lake City, Utah
American Airlines 1-800-227-4622
I have also used Northwest Airlines, but the one flight that I did use the flight information and times were not as
given. The puppy arrived OK, but the times and flight numbers were wrong. Northwest’s hub is Minneapolis.
All airlines require a hard sided non-collapsible kennel with the following:
Must have a metal grated door with food and water dishes clipped to the inside of the door
Must allow the dog to stand up (head erect and not touching the top), lie down, turn around in a normal, comfortable position.
You will need to provide a towel, or other absorbent material, for the bottom of the crate for absorption and padding.
Also, the following regulations apply:
Dog must be at least eight weeks old and weaned.
You must provide a health certificate signed by your veterinarian not more than 10 days in advance.
Food and water must be offered within 4 hours of flight.
I recommend purchasing the shipping crate a week before you intend to fly your dog. Take a few minutes every day to put him in the crate so that he will be used to his
surroundings before flying.
XVI Shots -what, when and how often
It is very important that your new puppy gets a series of three vaccinations between 7 and 8 weeks through 15 weeks. The reason for a series of three vaccinations spread
over 8 or 9 weeks is no one can tell for sure if the mother’s antibodies, produced by her vaccination, that the puppies get from their mother is still in their system. If the
puppy gets the first shot and the mother’s antibodies are still in their system it will be blocked by their systems. This interference will fade as the puppy ages and it is at that
point his puppy vaccination will provide protection for him. During this time do not take your puppy to public places as he is still vulnerable and if exposed can become ill.
There are many studies that now conclude yearly vaccinations are not necessary. They may not only be unnecessary but can actually damage your dog’s future health.
Our kennel, Hill Peak Pups, follows the 2007 vaccination protocols from Washington State University, as stated on their website:
Core: DA2PP
Puppies 8, 11 and 14 weeks
One year later
Then repeat every 3 years
Each patient should be evaluated for increased risk of exposure for consideration for yearly protocol.
Rabies
Start puppies at 12-14 weeks of age
Repeat 1 year later
Then repeat every 3 years
Non Core:
Leptospirosis
Bordetella
Corona
No other vaccines are recommended for dogs.
The vaccinations your dog has received prior to this time may be good for longer than 1 year, please discuss this with your veterinarian.
XVII Health Guarantees - what to expect
Health guarantees are always offered by reputable breeders. They range from a very simple, one page health guarantee to a more complicated health guarantee that
covers genetic health problems. Always find out what kind of health guarantee the breeder offers and read it before you buy your new puppy.
Health guarantees normally cover life threatening problems, they should offer a replacement puppy or a refund of your money. Most guarantees do not cover small
problems such as worms, ear mites etc. The health guarantee is meant to offer you protection just in case your new puppy should have a serious genetic health problem.
XX Daily Exercise
For your puppy of seven to 12 weeks, exercise is the time you spend playing with him (see puppy training and house breaking). Play school should be fun for you and your
puppy and when he reaches the ripe of age of 12 weeks, it’s time for him to go to training school. This is where you teach him manners and let him know with no uncertainty
you are the pack leader and he has to follow you not the other way around. This is also when real exercise starts. The best exercise is the walk and you will want to
gradually work up to a one hour walk or as close to it as possible. At 12 weeks old, walks should be 10 to 15 minutes. When I say a walk I don’t mean on a spring-loaded
reel leash meant for taking a dog to do his business, that is just taking him out to his bathroom. The walk that I’m referring to is really a time for exercise and teaching. A fast
paced walk for an adult dog is what you are going to work up to, not start with. You will have to use some common sense and judgment here. If you are walking a greyhound
pup, walk at a reasonable pace for him. If however, you are walking a teacup Poodle you will have to walk much slower. At first take it easy, you are not in a race, you will be
walking faster as he grows. You will need a leash of at least six feet and a proper collar (see leashes and collars).
Additional exercises are great for your dog and fun for both of you. Throw a tennis ball, fling a Frisbee, toss a stick, you can teach him to retrieve with a little effort and
patience. If he is a retriever he will do it instinctively. Remember make all exercise fun, and besides, the exercise is good for both of you. If you have problems throwing a
ball far enough or straight enough consider a tennis ball thrower. No, I don’t mean hire a neighbor to throw it for you! It actually is a toy that helps throw a tennis ball further
and straighter. They work great and are very inexpensive.
XXI Playtime - Do’s and Don’ts
As I mentioned in Exercise, playing ball, Frisbee or throwing sticks are all good forms of play. Getting a dog all excited by roughhousing or wresting until the puppy is having
fun and GROWLING is not a recommended form of play. It might seem cute when she a young pup, but it may cause serious problems later on. When playing ball or other
retriever fetch games always make her release the object. Never wrestle it out of her mouth, she must release it. Command “Drop” and if she doesn’t, don’t pull. Shove it
down her throat, not literally, just push until she releases. A game that I see so many clients play with their dog is tug of war, a very bad game to start, don’t do it, she will
learn to fight you for things besides toys. If you have already started this and let her win, I suggest you play tug of war just a few more times -- but don’t let her win at any cost.
She must learn who is pack leader, you have been letting her win at tug of war and unwittingly taught her that she is the pack leader. Un-teach (re-train) her and get back
your top dog status. Once that is accomplished you can teach her to release on the fetch game. It will not only be more fun for you and her, but much easier on your arm!
XXII Grooming
There are two categories of grooming. One a total grooming as done in a dog grooming shop. This entails a brush and bath clipping of their coat, cleaning hair out of their
ears, expressing anal glands, clipping nails and adding ribbons and bows if desired. Clipping the coat can be as simple as trimming between the toes of a Cavalier King
Charles Spaniel, which is all that should be done and if being shown in a dog show even that is too much, just brush, bathe and nails.
The other end of the spectrum would be the show clip of a standard Poodle, complete with balls of hair on their legs and bare places on their backs to the ball at the end of
the tail. The standard show Poodle takes a lot of time and effort and is best left to the professional groomer.
The second category is home grooming, these are the tasks for which you, the owner and trainer, are responsible. Let me rephrase that. These are not the grooming
chores that you could do if you wanted, these are the grooming chores for which you are responsible and must do.
A light brushing every day is not only easy, it takes very little time. The benefits are numerous. Daily brushing is needed for short haired and long haired dogs alike. Daily
brushing bonds you and your dog even closer; she will look better and you will have the opportunity to find any parasites that need to be dealt with. Your dog’s coat will stay
shiny and you won’t have to spend weeks or even months getting her back into shape after being neglected. If let go a dog’s hair will get tangled and knotted. These have to
be teased out with a comb, which is difficult at best and very unpleasant for your dog.
Bathing your dog should only be done when necessary, not weekly or even monthly. Too much bathing can remove the oils from her coat. When you do bathe your dog use
a shampoo meant for dogs not humans. Put a rubber mat in the bottom of the tub, sink for small breeds, to prevent slipping. When washing her face use a wet cloth, dogs
don’t like water thrown or dumped in their face. In fact throwing water in a dog’s face is an excellent punishment. Be sure to rinse her well and when all done, rinse her
again. Let her shake herself dry outside if summer or in winter dry her with a towel and a hair dryer, used carefully, or a vacuum in the reverse blower mode. The only other
requirement is doing nails. Start trimming her nails early, she will be much easier to handle later on if you do. The guillotine type is the best type to use. They are available
in pet shops, veterinarians or online. The first time you clip her nails have someone help you, she may squirm, whine and try to pull away, that’s only natural. So don’t
reprimand her or scold her. You will only make her more upset. Just be firm, she will learn that this is something she must endure. The easiest way to tell if your dog needs
her nails clipped is when she walks on a hard surface floor, like wood or tile, if you hear clicking, it’s time. After clipping just file the tip of the nail gently to remove the
roughness.
A. Nail trimmers and Kwick stop or bleed stop, you should have this on hand just in case you clip a toenail too short, into the quick.
B. Brushes.
Pin Brushes: long coats with little undercoat
Slicker Brush: to remove hair and undercoat, these are especially good for non shedding dogs like Poodles or Cotons de Tulear.
Comb: A wide tooth comb to get any remaining mats that brushing might have missed.
Grooming rakes: Rakes work better on long haired dogs than a comb, careful here, use a rake not a dematter -- there is a difference.
Grooming Glove: Great for removing unwanted hair from short haired breed
XXIII Puppy or Adult?
Before deciding whether to get a puppy or an adult, it is important to understand how a dog learns. He learns by reinforcement, either positive or negative. (see Sec. VII
Obedience Schools) You should start bonding with and training your dog at seven to eight weeks old. Most people who sell their adult dog or have given him up for
adoption, not only did not start their puppy training at a young age but virtually did not train him at all. Can you teach an old dog new tricks? Yes, but it is much more difficult
and unless you are an experienced dog trainer I would not advise taking on this difficult task.
I suggest starting with a puppy, purchased from a reputable breeder and NOT at a pet shop! (see final tip. XXV " How To Avoid Puppy Mills"). When you start with a puppy he
will learn what you want him to do, or not to do, very quickly. If you want your adult dog to lie on your furniture or on your bed. It’s your choice, just remember, if you don’t want
your adult dog to do something, then don’t let your puppy do it! Be consistent! You cannot let your cute little puppy beg at the table one time and then scold him the next. You
will be happier giving your dog limits and boundaries, and so will he.
A puppy learns quicker than an adult and bonds to his family in a much more positive way.
One last consideration in choosing a puppy or an adult: To rescue or to purchase. When you buy a puppy from a reputable breeder, you know what you are getting,
especially if you have done your homework on which breed is suited for you and your family. If you rescue a dog, a wonderful gesture, but you do not know what you are
getting. Was the dog abused? Is the dog a fear biter? Is the dog much too aggressive? Etc. Etc.
Listen very closely! Can you hear the Humane Society screaming? I think I did as I was writing this last paragraph. Very few families give up a well behaved, well adjusted
and healthy dogs for adoption or possibly to be euthanized. Would you?
XXIV Choosing A Vet
For simplification in this tip I will refer to the veterinarian as “he” and I will refer to your dog as “she”.
Your veterinarian has a really tough job, your dog cannot say how she feels or where she hurts, and he has to figure it out.
Try walking into your doctor’s office on your next necessary visit, hand him a note stating “I’m not feeling well, help me”. Don’t say a word and see if your doctor can figure
out your problem, before throwing you out!
Your vet has to do just that and if you have not kept good records his job is even more difficult. I highly recommend keeping records such as vaccinations, what type and the
dates given, what illness she has had in the past, what type of food you feed and of course when the current symptoms started, these records will be beneficial to you, your
dog and your vet, his job is even more difficult.
You must have confidence in your vet as you will be needing him for many years to come, so choose carefully. When you first get to his office notice if the staff is friendly and
helpful, or do they act like it’s an imposition to help you? Does the office smell clean and are the exam rooms immaculate or just OK clean? Watch the new vet closely, how
does he handle your dog? Is he caring and gentle or rough and in a hurry. Is he truly interested in your dog and pleasant with you? Does he let you know what he is doing
and why? Communication is important and don’t forget to ask questions. He should tell you everything that you need to know. Make sure and ask questions if you don’t
understand his instructions.
Some vets seem like they are just in the business to expand their offices and make money because they charge so much more than other vets in the area, so do check his
prices before you make an appointment. I am not suggesting you shop your vet by price, but if you have checked the prices in your area and this vet is high in comparison
you might want to look further.
Once you have decided that you can trust a vet, stick with him. He will get to know this member of your family and treat her as such. Also he will have detailed records of her
health from shots to any illness she may have had in the past. His office will normally send out a notice that your pup needs her booster vaccinations and teeth cleanings,
just in case you forget.
XXV One Final Tip - How to Avoid Puppy Mills
At the time I wrote these tips the state of Virginia had been in the news as being the state with the most puppy mills. One such cruel and inhumane puppy mill had over
1000 dogs! There were just four employees to care for over 1000 dogs, certainly an impossible task.
Without going into graphic details I do want to explain what a puppy mill is because I have talked to lots of people who have never heard of a puppy mill. A short explanation
would be; some greedy inhumane person wants to make a lot of money from breeding dogs. It is very difficult to make money from proper dog breeding. The costs
involved in breeding properly are good quality food, disinfecting the runs and pens, veterinarian care, socialization of pups etc. Dogs are very social animals and need
human love and contact.
Puppy mills eliminate all the things that dogs need, because of the cost. Cheap food is really their only expense. No heat or cooling in the kennel, no veterinarian used,
they put the dog down when it is too sick to breed, never giving a bitch a rest by breeding her every heat. They not only don’t socialize the pups they also basically ignore the
adult breeders. Adults are kept in single small crates with wire bottoms that they never leave, day or night. Some puppy mills are nothing more than old sheds or barns,
with no windows in order to keep them quiet as to not alert passersby lest they be discovered. The living conditions are too horrible to include in this writing.
They sell thousands upon thousands of puppies each year. You may wonder how they can possibly sell that many puppies. Their main buyers are pet shops, who contract
to buy entire litters, that is, the ones that survive. These puppies are as you can imagine very low quality, most are very unhealthy and almost all are shy and do not make
good pets. There are exceptions, some pet shops buy there pups from breeders that they have visited and inspected. My question is, which ones? I for one would never
sell one puppy, let alone an entire litter of any dogs that my wife and I breed to a pet shop. I also in all of the many breeders that I know personally don’t know any that
would. A quality breeder is careful about where their puppies go and make sure that they get a good home. They do it for the love and joy of breeding and the joy that it
brings to the new owners and their children. Puppy mills sell for much less that the going price for that specific breed, that should be your first clue. You can’t buy a $1,500
to $3,000 pure bred dog for $800 and expect to get a well adjusted happy puppy.
I mentioned Virginia at the beginning of this tip, or warning if you will, but sadly there are puppy mills in most, if not all, states.
Whenever possible, visit the kennel where you intend to buy your puppy. It is not always possible to visit the kennel however. The breed upon which you have decided may
not be available in your area and you have to depend on your conversations with the breeder and how freely they give you information that you asked for. One check that can
work in your favor is this: Tell the breeder that there aren’t any breeders of that type of dog in your area and you would like to get a discount for buying the entire litter. The
discount needs to be enough to allow you a reasonable profit. A quality breeder may just hang up on you or be polite and just tell you no. If they say, “it can be arranged“
you just found a puppy mill. What I am saying here is use your head, be cautious and buy from a quality breeder, there are many all across the country. I am personally
working on a list of recommended breeders. It takes time to visit so many breeders in order to compile the full list. In the mean-time feel free to e-mail me for a good quality
breeder in your area
Bob Handman@doghandyman.com
The Dog Handyman
The first question I’m usually asked by puppy buyers is “What should I feed” him or her?
It can be a confusing subject considering the different types and brands of dog food available on the market today.
There are four types of dog food available:
moist - firm, canned
Semi moist - in pouches
Wet - in pouches or cans with gravy
Dry - in bags
All of the newest studies show that good quality dry dog foods are a complete and nutritious diet needing no supplementation. Dry food is easier to feed and much better
suited for long road trips. I also use it for rewarding my dogs and puppies during training sessions (when in training do not let your puppy eat until after the morning training
session). Keeping kernels of dry food in your pocket gives you immediate access to treats when your puppy deserves a reward for commands quickly obeyed.
Choosing a good quality of dry food it is not as confusing as you may think. A brand that contains no corn of any kind is the one to choose for your puppy. Check the
ingredient label, if any type of corn is listed (with the exception of corn oil) especially as one of the first five ingredients, keep looking. Corn is a filler that your puppy cannot
digest and can also cause allergies, when checking ingredient labels make sure there is no corn meal, corn flour, corn masa or corn syrup listed. NO CORN PERIOD!
Also be aware that manufacturers list ingredients in order BY WEIGHT, thus camouflaging the real order of quantity of each ingredient. As an example, label of ingredients
lists CHICKEN, BARLEY, RICE, WHEAT, ETC. The chicken out weighing the grains is listed first, but the amount of grain would really be the main ingredient. Knowing this
fact makes your choice simple. All you need to do is read the label!
The second question I am most often asked is, “how much should I feed” him or her. Most breeders feed their dogs twice a day at very specific times. The first in the early
morning before any training sessions. The second feeding in the evening. The amount that you should feed depends on how active your dog is and of course the size of
your dog, unless you choose to free feed. I found in all my years of owning, breeding and training dogs that “free feeding” works best for myself and my dogs. Free feeding
means you have food and water in a designated area allowing easy access for your dog 24/7. An exception is while either house-training or during the first four or five
months while obedience training. During the first few months, pick up the food at bedtime and replace it after the first morning training session. It has been my experience
and proven in scientific studies that dogs are less likely to over-eat when they have food and water available at all times.
VII OBEDIENCE SCHOOLS
Before I explain obedience schools or classes you should know something about how a dog learns.
Dogs learn what they are taught by reinforcements, either positive or negative. Examples of positive reinforcement are food, water, or praise. Examples of negative
reinforcements are a firm scolding or a fright scare like a loud clap. The reinforcement whether positive or negative must happen immediately during the training! Let’s
assume you told your puppy to sit and without pushing down on his rump he sits - then ten minutes later you give him a treat, you wouldn't’t expect him to know what the
treat was for would you? The same applies when giving him a negative reinforcement, to scold your dog ten minutes after he misbehaved is worthless, he won’t
understand why he is being punished. Your puppy will learn much quicker if given the proper incentives and reinforcements at the exact moment of the act, good or bad!
When training, your puppy absolutely must give you his undivided attention. To get his attention you can speak his name, snap your fingers or hold out a treat. He will look
up at you and when de does you have his attention. It is very important to KEEP his undivided attention at all times when training and the best way to accomplish this is to
keep his needs i.e. food and water unsatisfied. A well fed dog is easily distracted.
Let’s get back to obedience schools. I want you to go to an obedience class to show off your well-behaved puppy, now is the time and I don’t blame you for showing off! You
should be proud of yourself and your fabulous puppy. Taking your puppy to obedience class to learn is one of the worst environments to train your puppy. One of the
reasons that these classes run so long is that each new puppy must get used to so many distractions, other people, cars and other puppies! When training you need to
keep your puppy’s attention. To do so, use a quiet room an empty garage or anywhere you can go uninterrupted without distractions.
Only after training your puppy to sit, stay, come and heel that obedience classes should be attended. When your puppy follows all commands without flaws either in a quiet
setting or one where there are many distractions you can go further!
After your puppy follows your commands consistently you should start introducing some distractions. Take him outside for training and if your children are playing nearby, all
the better. Introduce distractions slowly at first and remember a well fed dog is easily distracted! Keep his needs such as food and water unsatisfied while training. The few
kernels of his regular dog food will be quite the treat when he obeys your commands.
VIII Methods of Training
There are different methods of dog training that are all designed to accomplish the same goal; A well behaved, obedient pet. The first method is the old “Standard Method.”
The Standard Method teaches a dog to sit by pushing down on it’s rear end and forcing him to sit, while giving the command “sit”. With enough repetitions the dog will learn
to sit on command. Other commands, such as heel, stay and come are taught in the same general manner.
The second method is called the “Natural Method”. In the Natural Method you stand in front of the dog, bend over to get closer to his level, and have a treat ready in your
hand, holding it above his head while moving the treat back toward his tail. The natural Tendency is for the dog to sit in order to keep his eye on the treat, and as he does
you command “sit.” With enough repetitions, the dog will learn to sit on command. Other commands are taught through the use of their instincts, inherent behavior or
reflexes.
When it comes to reinforcement, both methods use positive and negative reinforcement. The Standard Method uses mild negative reinforcement, while the Natural Method
uses more harsh tactics. The Natural Method suggests that you whip a dog until it cries when not responding correctly to a command and even use electric shock for some
indiscretions. As you can imagine, the Natural Method does work quicker, an advantage for the professional dog trainer who needs to train several dogs as quickly as
possible. This method requires an extensive knowledge of both dog psychology and dog behavior and most professional trainers, like myself, have acquired this
knowledge in our studies of dogs over the years. The average dog owner would not have or would not want to gain that much knowledge about dog psychology in order to
just train one dog. I would also hope that most dog owners share my belief that electric shock and whipping are much too harsh. In my method of dog training, I teach you
how to train your dog by using the best techniques of both the standard and natural methods. The harshest punishment or negative reinforcement that I use, is a rolled up
newspaper. A rolled up newspaper makes more noise than anything else and won’t hurt the dog. Never discipline a small, young puppy with a rolled up newspaper.
Training a puppy or an adult dog should be fun for you and your dog. In training a young puppy, keep it fun and keep it short: 8 to 10 minutes maximum. You can increase
the duration of the training sessions after the puppy reaches the age of 12 weeks old. Now it’s time to move on to obedience training and let the fun begin!
VII Obedience Training - The proper time to start training a dog.
You should start training your puppy when she reaches the age of seven to eight weeks old. In other words, the day you get your new puppy home. Start the training with fun
games, more serious training won’t start until your puppy is twelve weeks old. The first command to teach her is to “sit”. The easiest way to teach her to sit is to stand or
kneel down in front of your puppy, crouch down in order to get a little closer to her level. Holding a kernel of her regular food in your finger tips, hold it above her head and as
she is fixated on the food, move it to a position that will cause her to automatically sit. A natural reflex. If she doesn't’t sit naturally, push down gently on her rump until she
sits. As she starts to sit, command “sit”. After she sits give her the treat and praise her. Don’t get too exuberant with your praise, do it calmly so as not to get her too excited.
A “good girl” and a pat on the head will do just fine. Once she has mastered the sit command without treats you can move on to new commands. You will be very surprised
at how quickly she learns. The four basic commands are; Sit, heel, stay and come. Teach one at a time and in that order, and keep it fun.
Young puppies have an incredibly short attention span, so don’t over do it, four to six times a day with 8 to 10 minutes sessions maximum. You can start increasing the
length of each session when the serious training starts at 12 weeks old. DO NOT punish your puppy for mistakes, she doesn't’ know what you want her to do yet. When she
makes a mistake, stay calm and don’t get upset as it will only upset the puppy. The proper way to correct a young puppy is to start over, try the command again and then
praise her for a job well done.
There is not enough space in these short tips to teach all the necessary commands that you need to teach your puppy, but this should give you a good head start.
After you see how quickly your puppy learned to sit on command and you want to teach her more, look for my upcoming book “The Home Grown Dog” available for free
downloading and also in published form.
X Training to Heel
I almost feel like “heel” should not be listed as a separate command. You will be using it casually to take your puppy from room to room or outside when teaching her to
“sit,” stay and come. This is also a very easy command to teach. Your puppy will learn it very quickly because she wants to follow you wherever you go, with or without a
command. To start with give her the command “sit“, after a few seconds, with leash in hand, do all three of the next steps simultaneously. Command her to heel, start
walking (left foot first with your pup on the left) and “gently” give a tug on the leash to signal her to walk with you. You will be surprised at how quickly she understands what
you want. Just remember to do all three at the same time. “heel” walk and tug “gently” until she has it down pat. You will notice that she will have a tendency to walk in front
of you. Do not allow her to do so, she is not the pack leader, you are. Once she understands “heel” and walks with you without the tug on her leash, command “heel” and
start walking. When you stop she should sit next to you automatically, if not command “sit” and pull back gently to help her understand what you want her to do. After a
couple of days of successfully walking at heel you can try it without a leash. Carry a long stick with you, not to beat her with, just to stop her from stepping out in front of you.
Simply move the stick across her chest with a very light tap. This will remind her to walk beside or behind you. She will probably not do well off leash the first few times, that’
s OK, just put her back on leash and start over. Again, end all training sessions on a positive note. Don’t try to use the stick too early in her training, as it could scare a
young puppy. When she is ten or eleven weeks old is soon enough.
The important things to remember: Don’t get upset when she falters on a command or breaks on a sit and don’t reprimand her, by the time you get to her it’s too late, she
won’t know why you are angry with her. Just put her leash back on and try again, correcting her as needed and praising her and or giving her a treat for a job well done.
“Voila” you have finished on a positive note.
XI Training to Stay
Teaching your puppy to stay is the most difficult command for him to learn, he doesn't’t want to be left behind. The drive to be part of the pack is extremely strong. Thus,
when you command “Stay” and walk away he wants to go with you, the pack leader. When first training your puppy it is important to not walk away, stay very close. Command
your puppy to “sit” he should be doing this readily by now. Crouch down low to your puppy and command “Stay.” Use a calm assertive voice. At the same time place your
hand in front of his face, palm toward him, almost touching his nose. Stand up, keeping the palm of your hand near his snout, move to the front of him, maintaining your
hands visual impact. Take your hand away slowly and after just a few seconds of him staying, release him from the stay by saying “OK” or “good boy.” Any number of
release words will work fine, even “release” if you wish. Just be consistent with the word and tone when using any specific command.
Remember to be patient, he doesn't’ know what you want yet and he just wants to be with you and not left behind. While in the “sit” - “stay” command if he tries to leave or
lie down, don’t let him. No scolding yet, just go to him and start over calmly. Don’t worry he’ll get it soon enough, I promise you. In these initial training sessions, keep him
on a leash and collar to maintain control. As he starts to understand the command “stay” start lengthening the duration of the stays and move farther away until you are at
the end of your 6 foot leash. If he breaks go back, start over and don’t move as far away from him. Then go back to a command that he knows well like “sit.” That will end the
training session on a positive note. “Good boy, do you want to play ball now“? Have fun and keep the training sessions short, only a few minutes. He will start serious
school after he is 12 weeks old. In the mean time it’s fun and games. He will be doing just fine by then. Later in his training you will be able to take him outside, command
“stay” walk out of sight to the other side of the house for instance. You’ll be able to leave him alone for long periods of time without him moving. That is later after 12 weeks
old, right now it’s just fun.
XII Training to Come
This command is extremely important to teach your dog. Can you imagine having a grown, adult dog that won’t come when you call her? You would be frustrated and angry
each time that you called her. This should never happen, “come” is the easiest and the most fun for you and your puppy to learn. You will be able to see the joy in your puppy’
s eyes when you command her to come. The first time you command her to come, watch how excited she is when she gets to run to you. I can also assure you there will be
a huge smile on your face when she does! All puppies will come to you willingly, but just because they will as pups doesn't mean that they will as adults. Start the training
as soon as you get her home and continue to reinforce the commands as she matures.
Put your puppy in a “sit-stay” command, she already knows and does well. Move away from her to the end of your six foot leash, get down on one knee, move your hands in
a motion for her to come to you and say “come.” She is on her way, that’s where she wants to be. When she comes, reward her with a “good girl” and a pat on the head or
even a treat, a kernel of her regular food works well. Don’t overdo the treats, once in a while is enough.
Continue training in this manner until she will reliably come to you on or off leash. Save training in areas where there are many distractions, like the backyard where your
children are playing nearby, until she is over 12 weeks old.
Never call your puppy or your adult dog in order to discipline her. Coming to you when called should always be a pleasant experience for her. If you are going to punish her
for some bad behavior, go to her, don’t call her to come!
XIII The Down Command
The command “Down” can mean different things to differently trained dogs. The Golden Retriever trained for duck hunting will be trained to lie down in the boat or duck
blind. He will be taught “down” “stay” and he will continue to lie down until released. The dog that is trained as a loving house companion also needs to be taught “down.”
The companion, however needs to learn not to jump up on children or guests. You don’t want your 80 pound dog jumping up on a child or a guest in her new cocktail dress
at the Christmas Party. “Down” means just that, get down and stay down. That includes pawing for attention. This command is for your little 12 pound toy Poodle also. It can
be quite annoying to guests having a dog clawing at them or trying to jump up in their lap. You don’t have to teach your companion to lie down on command, it really is not
necessary. The command “sit” is sufficient and if he decides to lie down after being on the “sit” command, let him - you are not in competition. Besides, you just said “sit”
you didn't say “stay.”
The young dog can be taught “down” by pushing him back with the palm of your hand directly in his snout. When correcting an older dog who may have forgotten his
lessons a swift knee to his chest will remind him very quickly. For the smaller older dog, stepping on his back feet will do the trick, but be careful not to step on his foot with
your heel.
Which ever method you use, just remember this is negative reinforcement and must be accompanied by a command. “Down” in a calm assertive voice, not in anger.
Yelling means nothing to a dog. Their senses work in this order: Smell is the most powerful, then sight, last and definitely the least, is hearing.
Stay calm, use the right tone in your voice and he will learn very shortly that “down” means “down.”
XIV Dental Care
For your dog to grow up to have strong teeth without gum disease start cleaning your young puppy’s teeth. Cleaning her teeth just once a month will do wonders, and it’s
quite simple. Use a terry wash cloth, dip the corner of a damp cloth in table salt. The salt will act as an abrasive, doing a better job than toothpaste and without the mess.
With a finger inside the salt dipped cloth or a soft bristled brush, use an up and down motion cleaning one tooth at a time until reaching the back teeth where it is possible
to clean several at a time. Cleaning in this way won’t take you long and your dog will be much better off because of it. Your dog will not have that old doggy breath as often
either.
Pfizer has introduced a canine dental vaccine that claims to prevent and treat periodontitis, the inflammation of dental bone and surrounding tissues. It works by stopping
build-up of black bacteria in the mouth. It doesn't’t retard plaque, so regular cleaning is still needed.
As long as your dog gets “chew bones“, like Nylabones or other chew toys and some chew treats like dental chews, once a month is sufficient brushing. Taking her to the
vet every six months to one year for deeper cleaning is highly recommended for removal of tartar build up. Your vet won’t have to work as hard on your dog’s teeth due to
your once a month brushing. One caution, some vets will anesthetize your dog to clean her teeth. If your regular vet does, find a vet that will clean teeth without putting the
dog under anesthetic. I never allow any of my dogs to be put under anesthetic for teeth cleaning. Every time a dog is anesthetized there is a risk and why not avoid the risk.
Your dog is already used to having her teeth cleaned because you have been doing it for months. There is no reason to put her under an anesthetic.
XV Why Spay or Neuter
There are several reasons beyond the obvious why your little female puppy should be spayed. You already know you don’t want her to come into heat with all the
accompanying problems, but two other very important reasons to spay are:
The more often a female comes into heat without being bred the higher the chance that she will get Pyometra a uterine infection that can mean emergency surgery and
also the possibility of death if unattended. It can be difficult to detect Pyometra.
Also an un-spayed female produces estrogen which in some breeds can cause cancer.
These two major problems are reason enough to spay your little girl.
Males should not be routinely neutered in order to modify their patterns of behavior. Dogs don’t usually suffer from a variety of behavioral problems that are caused by
testosterone. I do, however, see problems in dogs, fairly often, that could have been helped or even eliminated by neutering.
In studies done by Benjamin L. Hart at the University of California on the effects of neutering dogs, he found these statistics. I’m limiting those findings to those I feel are
important to you the pet-owner.
Roaming reduced in 90% of the cases.
Territory marking by urinating - reduced in 50% of the cases.
Aggression - reduced in 60% of the cases.
And finally, mounting people or “leg humping” - reduced in 60% of the cases.
Neutering does not however change his personality or his relationship with people, except the neutered male will in all likelihood, accept authority more willingly from his
human pack leaders, making him easer to train. If you do decide to neuter, let him sexually mature before neutering, don’t do it too early. You may even want to wait to see if
there is a problem and then neuter.
It boils down to personal choice where the male is concerned.
XVII Shipping Your Puppy
If it is necessary for you to ship your puppy I have included some information to make the process easier.
Pick a direct flight if possible, I have included airlines that I have personally used. I have never had a problem
with any of these airlines. Check each airline’s website for their suggestions on shipping your dog.
Alaska Airline 1-800-225-2752 they seem to have the most flights for pets, at least on the west coast.
Continental 1-800-575-3335, this airline caters to flying animals. Continental keeps pets in climate controlled holding rooms between flights, this is essential during hot
summers or cold winters. Their hub is Houston, Texas which is a problem depending on where your shipping destination is located
United 1-800-825-3788 United’s hubs are Denver, Chicago and Los Angeles so it will be easier to find the right flight for your destination
Delta Airline uses Sky West for their live animal shipments 1-800-258-2208, goes thru Salt Lake City, Utah
American Airlines 1-800-227-4622
I have also used Northwest Airlines, but the one flight that I did use the flight information and times were not as
given. The puppy arrived OK, but the times and flight numbers were wrong. Northwest’s hub is Minneapolis.
All airlines require a hard sided non-collapsible kennel with the following:
Must have a metal grated door with food and water dishes clipped to the inside of the door
Must allow the dog to stand up (head erect and not touching the top), lie down, turn around in a normal, comfortable position.
You will need to provide a towel, or other absorbent material, for the bottom of the crate for absorption and padding.
Also, the following regulations apply:
Dog must be at least eight weeks old and weaned.
You must provide a health certificate signed by your veterinarian not more than 10 days in advance.
Food and water must be offered within 4 hours of flight.
I recommend purchasing the shipping crate a week before you intend to fly your dog. Take a few minutes every day to put him in the crate so that he will be used to his
surroundings before flying.
XVI Shots -what, when and how often
It is very important that your new puppy gets a series of three vaccinations between 7 and 8 weeks through 15 weeks. The reason for a series of three vaccinations spread
over 8 or 9 weeks is no one can tell for sure if the mother’s antibodies, produced by her vaccination, that the puppies get from their mother is still in their system. If the
puppy gets the first shot and the mother’s antibodies are still in their system it will be blocked by their systems. This interference will fade as the puppy ages and it is at that
point his puppy vaccination will provide protection for him. During this time do not take your puppy to public places as he is still vulnerable and if exposed can become ill.
There are many studies that now conclude yearly vaccinations are not necessary. They may not only be unnecessary but can actually damage your dog’s future health.
Our kennel, Hill Peak Pups, follows the 2007 vaccination protocols from Washington State University, as stated on their website:
Core: DA2PP
Puppies 8, 11 and 14 weeks
One year later
Then repeat every 3 years
Each patient should be evaluated for increased risk of exposure for consideration for yearly protocol.
Rabies
Start puppies at 12-14 weeks of age
Repeat 1 year later
Then repeat every 3 years
Non Core:
Leptospirosis
Bordetella
Corona
No other vaccines are recommended for dogs.
The vaccinations your dog has received prior to this time may be good for longer than 1 year, please discuss this with your veterinarian.
XVII Health Guarantees - what to expect
Health guarantees are always offered by reputable breeders. They range from a very simple, one page health guarantee to a more complicated health guarantee that
covers genetic health problems. Always find out what kind of health guarantee the breeder offers and read it before you buy your new puppy.
Health guarantees normally cover life threatening problems, they should offer a replacement puppy or a refund of your money. Most guarantees do not cover small
problems such as worms, ear mites etc. The health guarantee is meant to offer you protection just in case your new puppy should have a serious genetic health problem.
XX Daily Exercise
For your puppy of seven to 12 weeks, exercise is the time you spend playing with him (see puppy training and house breaking). Play school should be fun for you and your
puppy and when he reaches the ripe of age of 12 weeks, it’s time for him to go to training school. This is where you teach him manners and let him know with no uncertainty
you are the pack leader and he has to follow you not the other way around. This is also when real exercise starts. The best exercise is the walk and you will want to
gradually work up to a one hour walk or as close to it as possible. At 12 weeks old, walks should be 10 to 15 minutes. When I say a walk I don’t mean on a spring-loaded
reel leash meant for taking a dog to do his business, that is just taking him out to his bathroom. The walk that I’m referring to is really a time for exercise and teaching. A fast
paced walk for an adult dog is what you are going to work up to, not start with. You will have to use some common sense and judgment here. If you are walking a greyhound
pup, walk at a reasonable pace for him. If however, you are walking a teacup Poodle you will have to walk much slower. At first take it easy, you are not in a race, you will be
walking faster as he grows. You will need a leash of at least six feet and a proper collar (see leashes and collars).
Additional exercises are great for your dog and fun for both of you. Throw a tennis ball, fling a Frisbee, toss a stick, you can teach him to retrieve with a little effort and
patience. If he is a retriever he will do it instinctively. Remember make all exercise fun, and besides, the exercise is good for both of you. If you have problems throwing a
ball far enough or straight enough consider a tennis ball thrower. No, I don’t mean hire a neighbor to throw it for you! It actually is a toy that helps throw a tennis ball further
and straighter. They work great and are very inexpensive.
XXI Playtime - Do’s and Don’ts
As I mentioned in Exercise, playing ball, Frisbee or throwing sticks are all good forms of play. Getting a dog all excited by roughhousing or wresting until the puppy is having
fun and GROWLING is not a recommended form of play. It might seem cute when she a young pup, but it may cause serious problems later on. When playing ball or other
retriever fetch games always make her release the object. Never wrestle it out of her mouth, she must release it. Command “Drop” and if she doesn’t, don’t pull. Shove it
down her throat, not literally, just push until she releases. A game that I see so many clients play with their dog is tug of war, a very bad game to start, don’t do it, she will
learn to fight you for things besides toys. If you have already started this and let her win, I suggest you play tug of war just a few more times -- but don’t let her win at any cost.
She must learn who is pack leader, you have been letting her win at tug of war and unwittingly taught her that she is the pack leader. Un-teach (re-train) her and get back
your top dog status. Once that is accomplished you can teach her to release on the fetch game. It will not only be more fun for you and her, but much easier on your arm!
XXII Grooming
There are two categories of grooming. One a total grooming as done in a dog grooming shop. This entails a brush and bath clipping of their coat, cleaning hair out of their
ears, expressing anal glands, clipping nails and adding ribbons and bows if desired. Clipping the coat can be as simple as trimming between the toes of a Cavalier King
Charles Spaniel, which is all that should be done and if being shown in a dog show even that is too much, just brush, bathe and nails.
The other end of the spectrum would be the show clip of a standard Poodle, complete with balls of hair on their legs and bare places on their backs to the ball at the end of
the tail. The standard show Poodle takes a lot of time and effort and is best left to the professional groomer.
The second category is home grooming, these are the tasks for which you, the owner and trainer, are responsible. Let me rephrase that. These are not the grooming
chores that you could do if you wanted, these are the grooming chores for which you are responsible and must do.
A light brushing every day is not only easy, it takes very little time. The benefits are numerous. Daily brushing is needed for short haired and long haired dogs alike. Daily
brushing bonds you and your dog even closer; she will look better and you will have the opportunity to find any parasites that need to be dealt with. Your dog’s coat will stay
shiny and you won’t have to spend weeks or even months getting her back into shape after being neglected. If let go a dog’s hair will get tangled and knotted. These have to
be teased out with a comb, which is difficult at best and very unpleasant for your dog.
Bathing your dog should only be done when necessary, not weekly or even monthly. Too much bathing can remove the oils from her coat. When you do bathe your dog use
a shampoo meant for dogs not humans. Put a rubber mat in the bottom of the tub, sink for small breeds, to prevent slipping. When washing her face use a wet cloth, dogs
don’t like water thrown or dumped in their face. In fact throwing water in a dog’s face is an excellent punishment. Be sure to rinse her well and when all done, rinse her
again. Let her shake herself dry outside if summer or in winter dry her with a towel and a hair dryer, used carefully, or a vacuum in the reverse blower mode. The only other
requirement is doing nails. Start trimming her nails early, she will be much easier to handle later on if you do. The guillotine type is the best type to use. They are available
in pet shops, veterinarians or online. The first time you clip her nails have someone help you, she may squirm, whine and try to pull away, that’s only natural. So don’t
reprimand her or scold her. You will only make her more upset. Just be firm, she will learn that this is something she must endure. The easiest way to tell if your dog needs
her nails clipped is when she walks on a hard surface floor, like wood or tile, if you hear clicking, it’s time. After clipping just file the tip of the nail gently to remove the
roughness.
A. Nail trimmers and Kwick stop or bleed stop, you should have this on hand just in case you clip a toenail too short, into the quick.
B. Brushes.
Pin Brushes: long coats with little undercoat
Slicker Brush: to remove hair and undercoat, these are especially good for non shedding dogs like Poodles or Cotons de Tulear.
Comb: A wide tooth comb to get any remaining mats that brushing might have missed.
Grooming rakes: Rakes work better on long haired dogs than a comb, careful here, use a rake not a dematter -- there is a difference.
Grooming Glove: Great for removing unwanted hair from short haired breed
XXIII Puppy or Adult?
Before deciding whether to get a puppy or an adult, it is important to understand how a dog learns. He learns by reinforcement, either positive or negative. (see Sec. VII
Obedience Schools) You should start bonding with and training your dog at seven to eight weeks old. Most people who sell their adult dog or have given him up for
adoption, not only did not start their puppy training at a young age but virtually did not train him at all. Can you teach an old dog new tricks? Yes, but it is much more difficult
and unless you are an experienced dog trainer I would not advise taking on this difficult task.
I suggest starting with a puppy, purchased from a reputable breeder and NOT at a pet shop! (see final tip. XXV " How To Avoid Puppy Mills"). When you start with a puppy he
will learn what you want him to do, or not to do, very quickly. If you want your adult dog to lie on your furniture or on your bed. It’s your choice, just remember, if you don’t want
your adult dog to do something, then don’t let your puppy do it! Be consistent! You cannot let your cute little puppy beg at the table one time and then scold him the next. You
will be happier giving your dog limits and boundaries, and so will he.
A puppy learns quicker than an adult and bonds to his family in a much more positive way.
One last consideration in choosing a puppy or an adult: To rescue or to purchase. When you buy a puppy from a reputable breeder, you know what you are getting,
especially if you have done your homework on which breed is suited for you and your family. If you rescue a dog, a wonderful gesture, but you do not know what you are
getting. Was the dog abused? Is the dog a fear biter? Is the dog much too aggressive? Etc. Etc.
Listen very closely! Can you hear the Humane Society screaming? I think I did as I was writing this last paragraph. Very few families give up a well behaved, well adjusted
and healthy dogs for adoption or possibly to be euthanized. Would you?
XXIV Choosing A Vet
For simplification in this tip I will refer to the veterinarian as “he” and I will refer to your dog as “she”.
Your veterinarian has a really tough job, your dog cannot say how she feels or where she hurts, and he has to figure it out.
Try walking into your doctor’s office on your next necessary visit, hand him a note stating “I’m not feeling well, help me”. Don’t say a word and see if your doctor can figure
out your problem, before throwing you out!
Your vet has to do just that and if you have not kept good records his job is even more difficult. I highly recommend keeping records such as vaccinations, what type and the
dates given, what illness she has had in the past, what type of food you feed and of course when the current symptoms started, these records will be beneficial to you, your
dog and your vet, his job is even more difficult.
You must have confidence in your vet as you will be needing him for many years to come, so choose carefully. When you first get to his office notice if the staff is friendly and
helpful, or do they act like it’s an imposition to help you? Does the office smell clean and are the exam rooms immaculate or just OK clean? Watch the new vet closely, how
does he handle your dog? Is he caring and gentle or rough and in a hurry. Is he truly interested in your dog and pleasant with you? Does he let you know what he is doing
and why? Communication is important and don’t forget to ask questions. He should tell you everything that you need to know. Make sure and ask questions if you don’t
understand his instructions.
Some vets seem like they are just in the business to expand their offices and make money because they charge so much more than other vets in the area, so do check his
prices before you make an appointment. I am not suggesting you shop your vet by price, but if you have checked the prices in your area and this vet is high in comparison
you might want to look further.
Once you have decided that you can trust a vet, stick with him. He will get to know this member of your family and treat her as such. Also he will have detailed records of her
health from shots to any illness she may have had in the past. His office will normally send out a notice that your pup needs her booster vaccinations and teeth cleanings,
just in case you forget.
XXV One Final Tip - How to Avoid Puppy Mills
At the time I wrote these tips the state of Virginia had been in the news as being the state with the most puppy mills. One such cruel and inhumane puppy mill had over
1000 dogs! There were just four employees to care for over 1000 dogs, certainly an impossible task.
Without going into graphic details I do want to explain what a puppy mill is because I have talked to lots of people who have never heard of a puppy mill. A short explanation
would be; some greedy inhumane person wants to make a lot of money from breeding dogs. It is very difficult to make money from proper dog breeding. The costs
involved in breeding properly are good quality food, disinfecting the runs and pens, veterinarian care, socialization of pups etc. Dogs are very social animals and need
human love and contact.
Puppy mills eliminate all the things that dogs need, because of the cost. Cheap food is really their only expense. No heat or cooling in the kennel, no veterinarian used,
they put the dog down when it is too sick to breed, never giving a bitch a rest by breeding her every heat. They not only don’t socialize the pups they also basically ignore the
adult breeders. Adults are kept in single small crates with wire bottoms that they never leave, day or night. Some puppy mills are nothing more than old sheds or barns,
with no windows in order to keep them quiet as to not alert passersby lest they be discovered. The living conditions are too horrible to include in this writing.
They sell thousands upon thousands of puppies each year. You may wonder how they can possibly sell that many puppies. Their main buyers are pet shops, who contract
to buy entire litters, that is, the ones that survive. These puppies are as you can imagine very low quality, most are very unhealthy and almost all are shy and do not make
good pets. There are exceptions, some pet shops buy there pups from breeders that they have visited and inspected. My question is, which ones? I for one would never
sell one puppy, let alone an entire litter of any dogs that my wife and I breed to a pet shop. I also in all of the many breeders that I know personally don’t know any that
would. A quality breeder is careful about where their puppies go and make sure that they get a good home. They do it for the love and joy of breeding and the joy that it
brings to the new owners and their children. Puppy mills sell for much less that the going price for that specific breed, that should be your first clue. You can’t buy a $1,500
to $3,000 pure bred dog for $800 and expect to get a well adjusted happy puppy.
I mentioned Virginia at the beginning of this tip, or warning if you will, but sadly there are puppy mills in most, if not all, states.
Whenever possible, visit the kennel where you intend to buy your puppy. It is not always possible to visit the kennel however. The breed upon which you have decided may
not be available in your area and you have to depend on your conversations with the breeder and how freely they give you information that you asked for. One check that can
work in your favor is this: Tell the breeder that there aren’t any breeders of that type of dog in your area and you would like to get a discount for buying the entire litter. The
discount needs to be enough to allow you a reasonable profit. A quality breeder may just hang up on you or be polite and just tell you no. If they say, “it can be arranged“
you just found a puppy mill. What I am saying here is use your head, be cautious and buy from a quality breeder, there are many all across the country. I am personally
working on a list of recommended breeders. It takes time to visit so many breeders in order to compile the full list. In the mean-time feel free to e-mail me for a good quality
breeder in your area
Bob Handman@doghandyman.com
The Dog Handyman
Hill Peak Pups
| 25 Tips for Puppy Buyers by Bob Handman "The Dog Handyman" |
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I Choosing the Right Breed
Choose the right breed to suit yourself, your family and your lifestyle. There are virtually hundreds of breeds to choose from, so you will need to do your homework.
Some dogs have been bred to be diggers, some are prone to barking a lot and some are bred to be extremely aggressive, etc.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of researching the different breeds in order to pick the proper dog for your family. First start with the American Kennel
Club groups. They are: Working Group, Sporting Group, Toy Group, Non-Sporting Group, Hound Group, Terrier Group and the Herding Group. Once you have chosen the
group of dogs that best suits you and your family you will have many different breeds to choose from within that group.
For example, if you decide on the Toy Group and you have an active lifestyle, hiking, roller blading, camping or other fast paced activities then the Cavalier King Charles
Spaniel would be an excellent choice. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is one of the few breeds in the Toy Group that will keep up with you and enjoy your activity as
much as you do. As an example the Bichon Frise or Pomeranian from the same group would not be a good choice, they would not be able to keep up with your
activities.
Choose the right breed to suit yourself, your family and your lifestyle. There are virtually hundreds of breeds to choose from, so you will need to do your homework.
Some dogs have been bred to be diggers, some are prone to barking a lot and some are bred to be extremely aggressive, etc.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of researching the different breeds in order to pick the proper dog for your family. First start with the American Kennel
Club groups. They are: Working Group, Sporting Group, Toy Group, Non-Sporting Group, Hound Group, Terrier Group and the Herding Group. Once you have chosen the
group of dogs that best suits you and your family you will have many different breeds to choose from within that group.
For example, if you decide on the Toy Group and you have an active lifestyle, hiking, roller blading, camping or other fast paced activities then the Cavalier King Charles
Spaniel would be an excellent choice. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is one of the few breeds in the Toy Group that will keep up with you and enjoy your activity as
much as you do. As an example the Bichon Frise or Pomeranian from the same group would not be a good choice, they would not be able to keep up with your
activities.
II Male or Female
This decision becomes less important when you spay or neuter your puppy - most people choose to do so and I highly recommend it.
Generally people are aware of the inherent problems of either a male or female, such as marking their territory, coming into heat, etc. When you spay or neuter you
will greatly reduce or eliminate most inherent problems.
My personal experience with potential dog owners is that their main concerns are about the personality differences between the sexes.
In the more calm, less assertive dogs like Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, toy Poodles, etc you will find little or few differences between the male and the female. If,
however, you choose an aggressive breed like a Rottweiler or a German Shepherd, you will find in general that the male is more aggressive than the female.
Boys are usually more outgoing and a little more time consuming in their training. Because girls are somewhat more eager to please, they will pay closer attention to
you during training sessions. Boys tend to be more outgoing and ready to play. The girls like to play as well, but not as intensely as the boys. The boys are usually
more confident and will explore the unknown more readily than the girls.
One last item to consider in choosing a male of the more aggressive breeds. The male will try to dominate: become the pack leader over all the pack. That includes
you! With these breeds, it is imperative that you are an assertive strong pack leader. Even if you choose a female, it will just take her a little longer to dominate the
household .... That is ..... unless your mother- in-law lives with you!
This decision becomes less important when you spay or neuter your puppy - most people choose to do so and I highly recommend it.
Generally people are aware of the inherent problems of either a male or female, such as marking their territory, coming into heat, etc. When you spay or neuter you
will greatly reduce or eliminate most inherent problems.
My personal experience with potential dog owners is that their main concerns are about the personality differences between the sexes.
In the more calm, less assertive dogs like Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, toy Poodles, etc you will find little or few differences between the male and the female. If,
however, you choose an aggressive breed like a Rottweiler or a German Shepherd, you will find in general that the male is more aggressive than the female.
Boys are usually more outgoing and a little more time consuming in their training. Because girls are somewhat more eager to please, they will pay closer attention to
you during training sessions. Boys tend to be more outgoing and ready to play. The girls like to play as well, but not as intensely as the boys. The boys are usually
more confident and will explore the unknown more readily than the girls.
One last item to consider in choosing a male of the more aggressive breeds. The male will try to dominate: become the pack leader over all the pack. That includes
you! With these breeds, it is imperative that you are an assertive strong pack leader. Even if you choose a female, it will just take her a little longer to dominate the
household .... That is ..... unless your mother- in-law lives with you!
III House Training the Puppy
House training starts with crate training. When a puppy is introduced to a crate at an early age she will always think of it as her personal space. As an adult dog she
will feel relaxed and comfortable when she is inside. Crate training is also the easiest way to ensure safe, secure, and contented traveling. Wherever you go, when
she goes with you, she can take her portable home with her. The crate is also where to start her house training. A dog does not want to mess in it’s own bedding, so
put a folded towel or blanket in the rear of her crate and place newspaper to the front. The puppy will go to the paper to relieve herself and keep her bedding dry and
clean. Let your puppy out of her crate and take her outside the very first thing in the morning: you can have your coffee later! Do not feed her first thing in the morning,
she can wait until she has had her first training session of the day. A well fed dog is easily distracted and you will need her undivided attention during her training
session.
Watch your puppy during the day, when you see her eating it will be time to take her out shortly. Also, watch for restlessness or being fidgety, she probably wants to
go out. When she relieves herself, praise her calmly. In the initial house training you will also want newspaper at the exit of her crate and each day move the paper
closer to the door leading outside. If she does relieve herself in the house it should be on the paper. Puppies that get used to going on paper will be triggered to "go"
when their feet hit the paper. A puppy that gets used to going in the grass will be triggered to go when she feels the grass. By letting your puppy get used to going on
the linoleum or tile floor in your kitchen, means you have now trained your dog to relieve herself in the kitchen on the linoleum or tile.
Never discipline your puppy for going in her crate or on the floor, unless you catch her in the act and I mean in the act. Not five or ten seconds later, it's already too
late. A dog lives in the "now", not last minute or even five seconds ago. NEVER DISCIPLINE AFTERWARD, you must do it immediately while she is in the act of doing
something wrong.
All of this training starts the day you get her home, this is also the time to start her obedience training. Sit, heel, stay and come: they all start now.
If you are not sure of the correct procedure for obedience training a puppy, go to tip IX OBEDIENCE TRAINING.
House training starts with crate training. When a puppy is introduced to a crate at an early age she will always think of it as her personal space. As an adult dog she
will feel relaxed and comfortable when she is inside. Crate training is also the easiest way to ensure safe, secure, and contented traveling. Wherever you go, when
she goes with you, she can take her portable home with her. The crate is also where to start her house training. A dog does not want to mess in it’s own bedding, so
put a folded towel or blanket in the rear of her crate and place newspaper to the front. The puppy will go to the paper to relieve herself and keep her bedding dry and
clean. Let your puppy out of her crate and take her outside the very first thing in the morning: you can have your coffee later! Do not feed her first thing in the morning,
she can wait until she has had her first training session of the day. A well fed dog is easily distracted and you will need her undivided attention during her training
session.
Watch your puppy during the day, when you see her eating it will be time to take her out shortly. Also, watch for restlessness or being fidgety, she probably wants to
go out. When she relieves herself, praise her calmly. In the initial house training you will also want newspaper at the exit of her crate and each day move the paper
closer to the door leading outside. If she does relieve herself in the house it should be on the paper. Puppies that get used to going on paper will be triggered to "go"
when their feet hit the paper. A puppy that gets used to going in the grass will be triggered to go when she feels the grass. By letting your puppy get used to going on
the linoleum or tile floor in your kitchen, means you have now trained your dog to relieve herself in the kitchen on the linoleum or tile.
Never discipline your puppy for going in her crate or on the floor, unless you catch her in the act and I mean in the act. Not five or ten seconds later, it's already too
late. A dog lives in the "now", not last minute or even five seconds ago. NEVER DISCIPLINE AFTERWARD, you must do it immediately while she is in the act of doing
something wrong.
All of this training starts the day you get her home, this is also the time to start her obedience training. Sit, heel, stay and come: they all start now.
If you are not sure of the correct procedure for obedience training a puppy, go to tip IX OBEDIENCE TRAINING.
IV Puppy Accessories
Collar and leash - see collars and leashes
Food and water bowls
Training crate
Toys for play and chewing
Puppy play pen - optional
#1 See Collars and leashes
#2 Bowls, I highly recommend stainless steel bowls with slanted sides (like a pyramid). They are easy to clean and sterilize, and are dishwasher safe, will not tip
over, even if you have a puppy who likes to play in his food and water.
#3 Crates - Training crates are great for sleeping quarters. The crate makes house training much easier and quicker. A puppy will do it’s best to not soil her den.
(See Tip # III - House Training the Puppy).
#4. Toys - Any toy that looks good to you is fine, have fun shopping! There are so many toys to choose from you could spend hours just looking. You should,
however, include the following in your purchase: A twisted rope that is knotted at each end, most puppies love them, just pick the appropriate size. As for chew
toys, Nylabones are the best! Most dogs seem to like the chicken flavor over the others.( when the Nylabones are dirty put them in the dishwasher then simmer
them in chicken broth to bring back the flavor). Also, include a toy called a Kong, Again, all toys should be the appropriate size.
#5. Play Pens - Play pens of heavy wire construction should be chosen over plastic or other type pens. These pens can be opened to almost any shape you
desire. I recommend 24" high for puppies of small breeds; 36 " high for medium sized dogs and for large dogs, Great Danes, etc.,they make a 48 " high pen. Set
the play pen up on an easy to clean surface like linoleum or tile, with an area of newspaper at one end. This is a great place to house your puppy during house
training when you can’t keep your eye on her. The play pen is also the place for her when you have to leave for an hour or more.
#6 Grooming tools -
Brushes
Nail Clippers and nail files
Shampoos and conditioners
Collar and leash - see collars and leashes
Food and water bowls
Training crate
Toys for play and chewing
Puppy play pen - optional
#1 See Collars and leashes
#2 Bowls, I highly recommend stainless steel bowls with slanted sides (like a pyramid). They are easy to clean and sterilize, and are dishwasher safe, will not tip
over, even if you have a puppy who likes to play in his food and water.
#3 Crates - Training crates are great for sleeping quarters. The crate makes house training much easier and quicker. A puppy will do it’s best to not soil her den.
(See Tip # III - House Training the Puppy).
#4. Toys - Any toy that looks good to you is fine, have fun shopping! There are so many toys to choose from you could spend hours just looking. You should,
however, include the following in your purchase: A twisted rope that is knotted at each end, most puppies love them, just pick the appropriate size. As for chew
toys, Nylabones are the best! Most dogs seem to like the chicken flavor over the others.( when the Nylabones are dirty put them in the dishwasher then simmer
them in chicken broth to bring back the flavor). Also, include a toy called a Kong, Again, all toys should be the appropriate size.
#5. Play Pens - Play pens of heavy wire construction should be chosen over plastic or other type pens. These pens can be opened to almost any shape you
desire. I recommend 24" high for puppies of small breeds; 36 " high for medium sized dogs and for large dogs, Great Danes, etc.,they make a 48 " high pen. Set
the play pen up on an easy to clean surface like linoleum or tile, with an area of newspaper at one end. This is a great place to house your puppy during house
training when you can’t keep your eye on her. The play pen is also the place for her when you have to leave for an hour or more.
#6 Grooming tools -
Brushes
Nail Clippers and nail files
Shampoos and conditioners
V Collars and Leashes
The reason I have listed collars and leashes separately is that I only recommend one collar. The MARTINGALE COLLAR BY PREMIER. This collar will give you
complete control of your pet, from puppy to adult. Due to the design of the collar, unlike the standard buckle collar, your puppy won’t be able to “back out” and
escape if suddenly frightened, leaving you with an empty collar at the end of your leash and a potentially lost or injured pet. Choke collars won’t let your pet back out
and escape, but they do exactly what the name implies “choke” and have been associated with numerous injuries.
There are no plastic parts to wear out or break on the Premier Martingale Collar and it is fully adjustable. This provides you with the opportunity to buy only one collar
which will last a lifetime. The leash is simple, six foot long and constructed of nylon or leather. A spring loaded, self retracting leash should only be used when
taking your dog out to relieve himself, not for a walk. The Premier Martingale Collar and matching leash come in a variety of colors and are very reasonably priced.
We include a Premier Martingale collar and leash with every puppy that leaves Hill Peak Pups. It is our way of helping you keep your new puppy safe.
The reason I have listed collars and leashes separately is that I only recommend one collar. The MARTINGALE COLLAR BY PREMIER. This collar will give you
complete control of your pet, from puppy to adult. Due to the design of the collar, unlike the standard buckle collar, your puppy won’t be able to “back out” and
escape if suddenly frightened, leaving you with an empty collar at the end of your leash and a potentially lost or injured pet. Choke collars won’t let your pet back out
and escape, but they do exactly what the name implies “choke” and have been associated with numerous injuries.
There are no plastic parts to wear out or break on the Premier Martingale Collar and it is fully adjustable. This provides you with the opportunity to buy only one collar
which will last a lifetime. The leash is simple, six foot long and constructed of nylon or leather. A spring loaded, self retracting leash should only be used when
taking your dog out to relieve himself, not for a walk. The Premier Martingale Collar and matching leash come in a variety of colors and are very reasonably priced.
We include a Premier Martingale collar and leash with every puppy that leaves Hill Peak Pups. It is our way of helping you keep your new puppy safe.